THRIFT MAP← Guide

Sizing and quality: five minutes at the rail

Secondhand usually means no returns, so the decision happens at the rail. Since size labels are unreliable, measuring against your own body is the practical method.

Measure against your own body

Wrap a waistband around your neck: if the ends meet, the waist will probably fit. Hold a jacket's shoulder against yours — the shoulder seam should end at the edge of your shoulder, not droop past it. For sleeves, lay the garment's sleeve along your own arm. These three checks get you a correct decision with no fitting room.

Trust measurements, not the size on the tag

Sizing standards shift by country and by decade; a 1990s size can be a full size off today's. If you thrift often, note your chest, waist, hip and inseam measurements in your phone — you can stop reading tags altogether.

The five-minute flaw sweep

Go in order: underarms (yellowing, thinning), elbows and knees (shine), seams (splits), zip (does it close fully), lining (tears), hem and cuffs (fraying), and moth holes on anything woollen. Spotting flaws and judging the price against them is the real skill of secondhand shopping.

Frequently asked questions

Can a shrunken wool sweater be recovered?

Not fully. Soaking in hair conditioner and gently stretching helps a little, but wool that has felted cannot be brought back.

How do I pick a size in jeans?

Raw and rigid denim stretches about a size with wear; stretch denim settles instead. A rigid pair that's slightly snug at the waist can be the right call — the same logic fails with stretch.

Is a secondhand leather jacket a good buy?

Often one of the best. Check that the leather hasn't dried and cracked, and check the lining and zip. Dry leather revives with conditioner; cracked leather doesn't come back.

Is it safe to buy secondhand kids' clothes?

Generally yes — children outgrow clothes fast, so most pieces are barely worn. Check that snaps and buttons are firmly attached and that drawstrings don't pose a strangulation risk, and always wash anything that touches skin, like pyjamas or underwear, before dressing your kid in it.

What should I check on secondhand bags and leather accessories?

Check the zipper, the base of the handles and the corners for wear; leather that's dried out or cracked won't come back. A torn interior lining is usually repairable, so use it as leverage when you're negotiating the price.

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