What to look for when thrifting
You have to decide fast among hundreds of hangers. The good news: quality hides in a handful of physical clues, and learning them takes one afternoon.
Check the inside seams before the label
Neat, overlocked inner seams and generous seam allowances are signs of good construction — a narrow allowance means cheap and impossible to alter. On patterned fabric, a pattern that lines up across a seam is another mark of care.
Fibre content tells you more than price
The percentages on the care label are the fastest summary of quality: pure wool, cotton, linen, silk and cashmere, or blends with a high natural-fibre share. Polyester isn't always bad — it earns its place in outerwear — but for everyday shirts and knitwear, natural fibres last longer and wear more comfortably.
Inspect the hardware and the repairability
Metal zips, shanked buttons, a lining that's still sound: these decide how many more years a garment has. A missing button or a small split seam lowering the price is good news — both are easy fixes. What can't be fixed: yellowed underarms, moth holes, dead waistband elastic and felted wool.
Frequently asked questions
Will the stain come out? Is it worth the risk?
Fresh organic stains usually do. Oil, ink and old yellowing are often permanent. Worth the gamble on an expensive piece, not on a cheap one.
Does the brand matter?
A brand is a shortcut, not a measure. The same label made noticeably better garments twenty years ago than it does now — always go back to the fabric and the stitching.
What should I check on shoes?
Where the sole meets the upper, the heel wear and whether the inner lining is torn. Shoes take the shape of their previous owner, and resoling a badly worn pair rarely repays what you saved.
How do I get rid of a musty or mouldy smell in a secondhand piece?
Soaking in water with vinegar and drying in the sun clears most odours; for stubborn ones, a night covered in baking soda before washing helps. If mould has actually stained the fabric — leather and suede especially — the smell usually doesn't fully leave, so give it a sniff before you buy.
How do I test the zipper and buttons before buying?
Run the zipper up and down a few times — snagging or teeth pulling apart is a real flaw. Give the buttons a gentle tug to check the thread isn't loose; a missing button is usually a cheap, easy fix.
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